The vast majority of boot retention issues stem from either the boot being the wrong size or the hoof shape not featuring an appropriate trim. For best possible boot fit and success, make sure you are starting with a natural barefoot trim that is well-balanced, with low heels and short toes, and a small mustang roll applied to the hoof wall edge. Being able to do maintenance rasping in-between trims or keeping to a frequent trim cycle will optimize hoof health and boot performance.

Hooves that are flared, or have long toes or high heels will not experience optimum boot performance and longevity.

The boots are twisting. Why?
A boot that is too tight on the hoof will twist. Too narrow of a boot shell, or a captivator that is too tight and not able to be positioned properly on the heel bulbs will cause the boot to twist. If the captivator is tight or difficult to pull up onto the heel bulbs, the cables should be lengthened. A tight boot shell that is difficult to get on the hoof is too small and a larger size is needed. It is counter-intuitive, but these boots are designed to not be crammed onto the hoof or cranked down tight in the adjustments. A properly-fitting boot shell needs to have enough space within it to allow for the natural hoof expansion upon landing.


The boot came apart/cables pulled loose. Is the boot broken?
The cables will pull out of the front of the boot if the set screws are not tight, or if the cables are stacked or crossed on top of each other inside the cable clamp. Set screws need to be tight, and cables should lay parallel to each other. Make sure that when you have removed the set screws to adjust cables or replace cables that when you re-install the set screws, the cable clamp is sitting at a 90° angle to the face of the boot and that you can see both cables laying parallel to each other, and then install the set screws with the clamp in the outwardly rotated position.


My straps wore out or got grass/debris in them. Why do you use hook-and-loop straps?
We have chosen hook-and-loop material for our straps because they allow a near-infinite amount of adjustability, and are the most low-profile option. Straps with buckles are not as adjustable throughout a trim cycle, and will not hold up as well to being hit against rocks and rough terrain. Keeping your boots clean after every ride will extend the life of the straps. Individual replacement straps (and all other parts) are available once straps wear out.


My boots are making a clopping sound. Are they  too big?
It is likely they are too small. The clopping noise is likely coming from the expanding hoof pushing the boot slightly off with each stride. Although counter-intuitive, the boots should fit slightly loose rather than too tight, and better performance will be achieved with a boot that is even a little bit too large versus too snug.


My horse got a rub on the heel bulb.
Appropriately sized and fitted, they should not rub. Rubbing indicates either the straps are fastened too tight, the cables are not adjusted out long enough for appropriate ease of application, or the heel bulb shape is not compatible with the captivator shape and an alternate captivator model may be necessary.


The front of the boot wore through/cracked at the toe.
Wearing at the front of the boot indicates the horse is landing toe-first or toe dragging. Neither is optimal for how they should be moving, and the trim should be evaluated and adjusted to promote a proper heel-first landing.